This Saturday, November 13, T. Middy and I went to Edinburgh on the train to see the All Blacks SMASH Scotland at Murrayfield. (TM: "I'll support Scotland in every sport except rugby." I, however, still cannot forgive Scottish soccer for anti-NZ comments made by the Scotland manager during the 1982 World Cup, so both soccer and rugby are on my non-support list. On will-support list: curling.)
There was slight sport-related chaos in Glasgow on Saturday, involving fluorescent-vested police in the subway, queuing systems at Queen Street station, and a ban on alcohol sales on trains between Glasgow and Edinburgh that afternoon. Rangers were playing too that day, so the subways were crowded. Most of the Rangers supporters were wearing poppies.
It was a cold, clear day in Edinburgh. Already Christmas, according to Coca-Cola.
We strolled George Street and had a late lunch at an Italian restaurant, which used butter pats to express its divided sporting loyalties.
Along with everyone French-speaking in Edinburgh, we caught a bus to Murrayfield and then walked the last leg.
We had brilliant seats in the West Stand, surrounded by Scottish fans - many in kilts, some in Viking horns, one in a blue-and-white bodysuit (sensibly warm) and some in a popular ginger wig/tartan cap get-up that TM has threatened to buy. When I sang the NZ national anthem, I couldn't hear another voice joining in, though I could see a scattering of other NZ supporters nearby. Including this NZ supporter, who claims he couldn't join in because he only knows the first two lines.
The pre-show was a fantastic pipe band, displayed here swirling onto the pitch in out-of-focus artiness, then the anthems, then the haka (also slightly out of focus, because I was over-excited), partly drowned out by the whistles and jeers of Scottish fans. They weren't quite so vocal as the match progressed. I wonder why? Could it be because Scotland only scored once (a penalty) while the All Blacks converted seven tries?
At half-time, T. MIddy asked me about the "half-time show." He's used to America. Cheerleaders, mascots, a band; maybe even Ashlee Simpson. At Murrayfield, we had something much better - a sing-song to a souped-up, blasted-out version of"The Bonnie Banks o' Loch Lomond."
More than 50,000 fans were there at Murrayfield. I've never attended such a big international sporting event. The only other All Blacks test we've seen live was against France in Wellington, where the capacity is more like 35,000. I'd like to say this was the biggest sporting event of any kind I've attended, but unfortunately I've sat through an endless LSU game at Tiger Stadium in Baton Rouge (capacity: 92,000) - the longest, hottest day of my life.
We got tickets for Murrayfield, by the way, at the urging of my father, who went there to see the All Blacks play Scotland in January, 1964. That game was a draw. Scotland has played New Zealand twenty-eight times over the past 105 years. The All Blacks have drawn twice (in 1964 and 1983) and won all the rest.
Highlights: watching the amazing Sonny Bill Williams. Catching up with my boyfriend Richie McCaw. Seeing Dan Carter in full-length. The last time I saw him, he was a life-size paper fold-out acquired, via a milk promotion, by my niece.
Some final rugby links, which many of you may have seen. The first is the All Blacks showing off in an ad for Sky and the second is a parody of that video by the Brumbies.
Kia kaha, Scotland. If you play England, I'll support you.
Ah, sounds like a brilliant night. We watched it from the comfort of the sofa on the other side of the world.
Loved the YouTube clips!
Posted by: Vanda Symon | November 15, 2010 at 08:53 PM
Thanks for this wonderful report and great photos.
I thought I was your boyfriend though, I see I have been usurpoed by Richie McCaw! Oh well....
The game started at 6.20am Sunday NZ time, quite a civilsied hour so I got out of bed and watched what was largely an entertaining match.
Warm greetings from Auckland,
Nga mihi,
xx
Posted by: Bookman Beattie | November 16, 2010 at 08:59 PM
I really want to see T. Middy in the ginger wig and tartan cap. Post pics, please.
Also: Castle Hill looks awfully green for this time of year.
Posted by: TLB | November 17, 2010 at 02:20 AM
That sounds really fun. Do they make zubaz pants for rugby fans?
Posted by: Brando | November 20, 2010 at 08:10 PM